Heat Pump Repair
Year-round systems need year-round expertise — reversing valves, defrost failures, and runaway backup heat, diagnosed and fixed fast.
A heat pump works twice as hard as a furnace or an AC because it never gets an off-season — it cools all summer, heats all winter, and racks up compressor hours year-round. That constant duty produces its own family of failures: reversing valves that stick between modes, defrost boards that let the outdoor coil ice into a solid block, and auxiliary heat strips that quietly take over and double your power bill without you noticing. Our technicians are trained on heat-pump-specific diagnostics — we check refrigerant charge against the manufacturer's subcooling tables, run the defrost cycle end to end, and verify the balance point where backup heat should (and shouldn't) engage. Trucks carry defrost boards, contactors, capacitors, and the common sensors, so most repairs are finished on the first visit. Every job ends with a written report showing what failed, what we replaced, and the measured performance numbers after the fix — so you know it's actually fixed, not just running.
What’s included
- Heat-pump-specific diagnostics: defrost cycle, reversing valve, and balance-point checks
- Auxiliary-heat audit with every repair — we catch the strips that inflate power bills
- Defrost boards, contactors, and sensors stocked on every truck
- Same flat-rate pricing in January cold snaps and July heat waves
- 1-year parts and labor warranty on every repair
Common questions
My heat pump is covered in ice. Is that normal?
A light frost coat in winter is normal — the unit melts it off automatically every 30 to 90 minutes with a defrost cycle, and you may see steam when it does. A solid block of ice, ice that never clears, or ice climbing into the fan means defrost has failed. Shut the system to Emergency Heat and call us; running a fully iced unit can bend the fan and damage the compressor.
Why does my heat pump blow air that feels lukewarm?
Heat pumps deliver supply air around 90–105°F — warmer than your body, so it heats the house fine, but cooler than the 120°F blast a gas furnace makes, so it can feel mild on your hand. That part is normal. If rooms are actually losing temperature, or your backup heat is running constantly, something is wrong and worth a diagnostic.
My winter power bill doubled. Could the heat pump be the cause?
Very likely. When a heat pump loses capacity — low charge, a failing compressor, a bad outdoor sensor — the electric backup strips pick up the slack at roughly three times the operating cost, and the house stays warm so nobody notices. We test for exactly this on every heat pump call: if the strips are running when they shouldn't be, we'll show you the amp draws that prove it.